So .. I rewired some lights, .. so that I can take the Osram Smart lights off the power completely using my Homematic system..
The reason: the gateway for the Philipps Hue which is connected to the Zigbee Smart bulbs is .. shaky at best .. and it seems like the connection between the Hue and the Osram bulbs is not always working too well either .. in any case I decided it might be good if I could just switch these completely off since them being "always on" for months seems to have made them behave less and less..
So what do I use to switch them .. I still had two unused HmIPW-DRS8 in my fuse cabinet - they were planned for something else that we changed our mind on so they came in handy. Also in 2 rooms it was not feasible (due to major pains of drilling through some walls mostly) to put in more cables so I am using 2 HM-LC-Sw2-FM there (those work fine, but for some reason both of them took me a few attempts to get them connected to my Homematic CCU3. Once connected they work just fine though so I don't mind too much.
Three rooms have HmIP-BSL switches which can light up bottom/top half in different colours (independently if so desired) and those are actually not battery powered (like most of my other switches/buttons). Realizing those come with an acuator I decided to use that instead of wiring everything back to the fuse cabinet for no reason. Worked well until I sorted out all programs and was wondering .. why the hell do they always switch the relay inside them even for long press, when I only configured the sort press for that .. turns out they come with direct programs that mean that no matter if short or long press they will trigger the relay. Nice thing to have .. would be even better if it was mentioned in the manual clearly .. took me 10 minutes to figure out what the hell was going on .. so I tried to delete the direct programs to be greeted with an omnious warning about the device might stop working if I delete this, etc) .. lacking much choice I tried it and that solved the issue.
Then it occured to me that it made more sense to maybe just use those direct connections to switch the lights instead of through programs (which require the interaction with the CCU3 for sure). So i checked the other 2 switches and found an option to disable the long press for the direct connection. A quick test showed: it works fine. Next step: take the short press triggers out from all my programs and use direct instead for their respective own relais, and programs for the long press stuff.Share on Twitter Share on Facebook